Back to 'Tuscany' page
Discuss Tuscany in our Forum
Tours in Tuscany
Tuscany Accommodation
Bars in Tuscany - a Gastronomic Experience

A small town in Tuscany, ancient red brick and
stone, narrow cobbled streets winding around the
contours of the hill upon which it is built, a few
shops, all closed now, as it is siesta time. The
only sign of life comes from the doors of a bar, an
appetising aroma of espresso coffee wafting out to
give hope of food and sustenance to the tardy
traveller. If you're lucky it will be one of those
bars that provide a fine array of freshly made
sandwiches and pastries.
Italian bars are not primarily
about drinking...alcohol that is. Coffee is their
staple, the reputation of the barista stands or
falls on the espresso he produces. (A fine, literary
example is provided in ‘The Food of Love' by Anthony
Capella. Set in Rome, the barista is forever
tinkering with his coffee machine in
pursuit of the perfect coffee, cannibalising his van
to add parts to the machine to build up ever-higher
pressure.) Bars provide a social function: most of
the neighbourhood will pass through the bar during
the day, for a breakfast cappuccino and brioche (pastry),
mid-morning espresso and regular doses of the same
throughout the day. Even today most people stop work
at lunchtime for a two or three hour siesta break,
then work until 7 in the evening.
Anyone with any respect for their digestion would
take a leisurely lunch either at home or in a
restaurant or trattoria, but for those in too much
of a hurry, wanting food on the go, the bar provides
the equivalent of ‘fast-food': tramezzini
(sandwiches made with sliced bread, usually intended
to be toasted), panini (filled rolls of all sorts),
pastries both sweet and savoury, ice-creams. Of
course quality varies - at worst a sad selection of
curling-edged tramezzini, at best an enormous
variety of breads and fillings, tantalisingly
displayed and beautifully wrapped, if you intend to
take away.
My memories of the best include: Nannini's in Siena,
where it can take hours just to choose; the bar in
the main square of Colle di Val d'Elsa (Bassa),
where you could get a slice of flaky-pastried pie
filled with spinach, ricotta,
egg and more that melted in the mouth and ice-cream
that kept you there all day, just to try all the
different flavours; a simple bar on the main road
below Monteriggione, which would make you up a
panino fresh, with a crusty roll and ample slices of prosciutto,
carved straight from the ham, as you waited; a bar
on the Via di Citta in Siena near the Duomo, which
had the best breakfast brioches ever, tempting you
beyond the sensible ‘just one', into the realms of
second cappuccino, second brioche and beyond!
It is eight years since I was last in Tuscany,
(having children put a halt to travelling for a
while), but I am sure that those bars still endure,
serving coffee and food, the same mouth-watering
treats: Tuscan ‘fast-food' at its best.
Copyright Kit
Heathcock 2006 Kit
Heathcock - worked and travelled in Italy for many
years, is passionate about food and loves being a
fulltime mother.
Co-creator of A
Flower Gallery home
of original flower pictures and Food
and Family! Article
Source