A
Neapolitan Christmas & New Year
There is never a shortage of things
to do in Naples at Christmas. Christmas in
Italy. Italy, especially in the south is very
family and religion orientated, and less
commercial than in England or the US; for
example, instead of focussing on letter
writing to Father Christmas, it is
traditional for children to write letters to
their parents telling them how much they
love them. This letter is placed under the
father's dinner plate at Christmas eve
dinner.
Being the city
dedicated to presepe (nativity scenes),
there are hundreds to visit. The largest one
being in Museo di San Martino, which is open
all year round. There are also hundreds of
figurines too. Another place is San Gregorio
Armeno and surrounding streets, which gets
so packed with visitors they make the area
pedestrianised and enforce a one way
system! (see below under 'presepe' heading).
Many friends
and family come over to visit for meals, and
people go for many passaggiate (strolls)
along Via Caracciolo by the sea, or Via
Toledo, a large shopping street in the
centre, where Christmas music is played into
the streets from speakers, and there is a
large Christmas Market in nearby Piazza
Carita`, full of stocking fillers, Christmas
gifts and sweets.
The streets
are very lit up with many Christmas lights,
and surrounded by religious shrines, presepe,
food, music and the many people shopping or
just hanging out with friends, there is a
very 'buzzy' and Christmassy atmosphere....
Naples is definitely worth a visit at
Christmas! New Year's is definitely an
experience too, with a live nightime concert
in beautiful Piazza Plebiscito, and the city
coming alive at midnight with fireworks!
O`
Presebbio
Along with tombola,
zampognari and the
traditional Christmas menu on the 24th, the
Presepe or
o`
Presebbio
(in Neapolitan) is one of the most
important symbols of a Neapolitan
Christmas. Presepi
(plural) can
be defined as an elaborate nativity scene,
so apart from just a manger, the baby Jesus,
Mary and Joseph, you would also find for
example, the Ox and other animals (the Ox
was said to have stood near the crib and
kept Baby Jesus warm with it's breath), the
lights of Bethlehem in the distance, angels
hanging from pieces of wire, lakes or rivers
in the distance etc. There are many
craftsmen that continue this centuries old
art (see photo on right), building cribs,
nativity scenes and scenes from Neapolitan
life from wood, clay or plaster. One of the
most well known Presepe dates back to the
700s, and can be seen at the Museo di San Martino
in
Naples all year round.
Apart
from religious symbols, figurines and
nativity scenes, there are also an infinite
amount of other figurines and pieces
representing everyday scenes from Neapolitan
life and even political figures; pizza
ovens, market vendors with miniature baskets
full of tiny grapes, peppers or aubergines,
you can see figurines of Neapolitan beggars,
cheese shops.....each individual grape, tiny
piece of fruit, figurine's expression being
crafted with great care and patience by
hand (see above photo)
read an
interesting article about a nativity scene
with gangsters, gypsy children and
transvestites...
The most well
known area in Naples for Presepe
shops and crafstmen, is the street
San
Gregorio Armeno (see
photo right hand side) and surroundings,
which are long narrow cobbled streets
in
the historical centre of Naples. This street
is acknowledged by UNESCO as a
World Treasure. All year round you can visit
the little shops and bancarelle
(stalls) packed full of Presepe, and may
even see craftsmen making new pieces. When
it is the Christmas period, it is no
exaggeration to say that these streets
become 'choc-a-bloc' with people visiting
the area; both tourists and Neapolitans who
may have come to buy new pieces to add to
their Nativity scene at home. It is
something not to be missed if visiting
Naples during the Christmas period, as there
is a very Christmassy atmosphere!
Christmas Tree Galleria Umberto
Each year at
Christmas in the stunning Galleria Umberto,
as well as there being a large presepe,
there is always a huge Christmas tree.
Children and adults write notes or letters
to Father Christmas, loved ones, parents, or
wishes for the forthcoming New Year, and
attach them to the tree. As it draws nearer
to Christmas, the tree is covered in
hundreds of notes.
Capodanno
(New
Year)
If
you are looking for somewhere exciting and a once in a life
time New Year's experience, then go to Naples!
December 31st
On the 31st, everyone is generally
preparing for the night time meal and organising family
meals and what their plans will be after midnight, which
parties and bars to go to etc. The streets are filled with
people shopping for last minute outfits, and food shopping
for the big meal (cenone).
Two very busy places are in Via Toledo,
Pignasecca and
Porta Nolana. Via Toledo is a
large mostly pedestrianised street that leads down to Piazza Plebiscito, and is full
of clothes shops and bars. Pignasecca
leads off Via Toledo,
and is mostly food shops; butchers, delicatessens selling
cheeses etc. At Porta Nolana
there is a fanous fish market. These streets are full of
market vendors selling fresh fish; the traditional capitone, shell fish such as
vongole, squid and many other
types of fish. From the 24th of December until the 31st, the
market is virtually open 24 hours, with many
bancarelle never
closing, and it's definitely an experience going shopping
late at night or at one in the morning there. So many
different types of fish to see, and the streets are packed
(if not a bit smelly too from fishy water running through
the streets so wear trainers!)
There are many things to do in the night time. Many
restaurants offer a set menu, but will be very booked up so
need to be booked well in advance. Many people have a late
meal, either at home or outside, with family and friends.
There is a large concert held every year in the grand
Piazza Plebiscito (see above photo
from castagnaroparking.it). It is usually televised, and
there are local as well as famous musicians, or popstars and
tv celebrities. The concert usually starts around 9 or 10 in
the evening and sees in the New Year with a countdown. Many
thousands of people come to see the concert, young people,
tourists, Neapolitans, couples and families. Many come
prepared for the long night ahead with bottles of
spumante (Italian champagne)
and warm clothes. There are many surrounding bars in the
Piazza if you wish to top up on drinks or get a snack.
Just
make sure you are in a safe place at midnight! At midnight,
the whole city and surrounding areas become alive and 'on
fire' with fireworks. It is also a tradition to throw out
old furniture out the windows along with fireworks, so
walking in town or in small streets in the
centro storico is
definitely NOT advisable! The whole city goes crazy for at
least an hour with fireworks, and a good place to be at this
time is Via Carracciolo by the
sea (a short couple of minutes walk from Piazza Plebiscito),
as you will see literally thousands of fireworks for
hundreds of miles around; lighting up the Bay of Naples, and
the islands of Ischia and Capri. There are organised
firework displays, and many families hold their own displays
too (this usually means they just light it and throw it out
of the window at random!) People also let off fireworks in
the piazzas and in the street, especially street boys or
scugnizzi so be careful. Another excellent view point is
from Museo di San Martino, which overlooks the whole city.
(photo
rai.it)
One
organised firework display (see above) can be seen at the
Castel D'Ovo on the sea (incendio
dell'castello) A mock battle is staged between the
castle and boats in the harbour, with many colourful
fireworks, and the display usually last for about an hour if
not more.
From
midnight, there are many options open for partying. There is
a huge free outdoors party playing dance and chart music at
the port near Piazza Municipio. It is very busy, and there
are also porta cabin toilets and nearby bars to buy food and
drinks.
A
more 'classy' option, is to go to the San Pasquale a Chiaia area near the
desirable Chiaia and
Via dei Mille area of Naples
(about a ten minute walk from Piazza
Plebiscito). Here there are many trendy winebars full
of young people, open until the early hours of the morning.
Many people go from bar to bar meeting up with different
friends.
January 1st
This day is very relaxed. The
main meal is at lunch, when dishes such as
taglioni in brodo or leftovers are eaten. Many people
stroll along Via Caracciolo by the sea down to Mergellina,
and some may eat lunch by the sea. Family and friends visit,
and people are generally recovering from partying the night
before!
