There is a saying in
Italy that goes 'vedi
Napoli e poi muori'.
Translated, this means 'see Naples and
die'.
The actual meaning of this refers to being overwhelmed
by what a beautiful and an incredible city Naples is.
(although some may argue that what it really means that
Naples is such a dangerous and chaotic city that it will
kill you!)
Love it or hate it,
Naples really is a city and a half. It is full of life
and the life is full of passion. And yes, you
may
have heard some negative things about Naples, but there
are so many more positive things about Naples, it would
be a shame to make a judgement without ever having
visited the place yourself. In
my opinion, it is probably the most
colourful, vibrant and magical city in Europe, if not
the World. (photo right:San Martino monastery)
True,
Naples could be considered as chaotic, with cars and
vespas racing around the city not paying attention to
traffic lights -and in some cases, especially around the
historical centre, there are no pavements, but long
narrow roads in which to accommodate both traffic and
people.
It could also be
considered as corrupt or dangerous by some, with gang
warfare by the Camorra (Neapolitan
Mafia) still operating here, and teenage street boys
that mug people by snatching their bags while scooting
past on vespas (Not to mention stories circulating such
as a woman who went into a shop to buy some clothes, but
never came out....when the police were alerted by her
husband she was apparently found in the old city ruins
underneath the shop being smuggled to god knows
where......)
Yes
there are some bad points, but there are considerably
many more good points than bad. The whole point of
Naples is that the 'good' and 'bad' contrast each other
to such an extreme it is breathtaking. The long, narrow,
dusty, cobbled roads that can be found, especially in
the historical centre (centro
storico) can be found filled with washing
hanging from balconies and washing lines, vespas
constantly beeping their horns and scooting around,
street urchins (or 'scugnizzi' as
they are called) playing football in the street, stray
dogs or cats rooting around the streets for food, and
shady characters selling contraband cigarettes by the
side of the road-but turn the corner or just happen to
glance upwards from all the chaos and confusion and you
could suddenly find yourself looking at the most
beautiful church you have ever seen, or a view of the
amazing Amalfi
Coast and Vesuvious overlooking
the sea.
You just never know with Naples.
That is the beauty and the magic of it. Beautiful
churches, museums and architecture are to be found all
around the city, many forgotten about, because there are
just simply so many. The city is full of history,
culture and art. I once brought a friend to Naples, and
she said she could 'feel' the history. This was such a
great statement, as you really can feel the history;
there is just so much art and culture around. Most of
the buildings in the centro storico are the original
buildings and palazzi which date back to the 12th or
13th century, with very high ceilings and original
paintwork. Most original palazzi that used to belong to
Neapolitan Aristocracy or Royalty are now just family
homes or bed and breakfasts. There is also an
underground city in Naples, (you can go on an organised
tour) and some Greek ruins to be seen in Port'Alba (an
area in Naples incentro
storico that
used to be frequented by poets and students, and is
still quite bohemian), which there are still stories of
people using this network for smuggling.
As
mentioned before, it is the contrast of things which can
sometimes be so amazing. For example shopping in the
market inVia dei Tribunali which
is deep in the historical centre, you notice the
poverty, the chaos, the 'dustiness' of the city. Yet
five minutes walk down the road you find yourself in Piazza
Plebiscito (left); one
of the most beautiful piazzas I have ever seen.
Absolutely huge, with beautiful architecture, from which
you can see the sea and 3 of the Italy's most visited
tourist destinations; Sorrento,Ischia and
the beautiful island ofCapri... It
is also next to the very grand Gran
Caffe`Gambrinus (as
seen below), a
very famous bar and restaurant thats been open since the
1860's, and used to be frequented by Oscar Wilde when he
spent time in Naples in 1898 (he once had a vision of a
ghost there ). It also marks the beginning of the Chiaia district
which is one of the most desirable districts of central
Naples, with designer shops, bars and restaurants.

Another contrast that is very
apparent is the people themselves. Neapolitans are
very passionate and expressive people, and can talk like
there's no tomorrow. They talk with their hands a lot
and quite often raise their voices, which can be
mistaken for arguing-but once you get to know the
people, you will realise that what seems like an
argument, is usually just a 'discussion'! (about
football, or how to cook a certain pasta dish). As
Naples (and indeed in the rest of Italy as many other
countries with warm weather) has an 'outdoor' culture,
you will often see many people, teenagers and children
just 'hanging around' or having a walk or
passeggiata, talking about things. You might
see people arguing one minute, and then people singing
the next so don't be alarmed.
To visit the Gambrinus website and
learn about Oscar Wildes ghostly vision, and other info
about this famous bar and restaurant visit their site www.caffegambrinus.com